1. Style
H-shaped silhouette: slender, solemn, smooth, and not close to the body.
A-shaped silhouette: stable, stable, and full of youthful vitality.
T-shaped silhouette: simple, generous, and naturally wrinkled and loose-fitting.
V-shaped silhouette: exaggerated shoulders, lively and unrestrained features, which can reflect masculine charm.
X-shaped silhouette: slim, graceful and natural beauty, reflecting the characteristics of the female body shape.
O-shaped silhouette: Expand the shoulders and shrink the hem to show exaggerated and soft styling features.
2. Texture characteristics of materials
1. Fabric classification and application characteristics
(1) Natural fiber fabric
Cotton fabric is warm, hygroscopic, breathable, alkali-resistant and acid-resistant, has good affinity for dyes, and has good printing and dyeing effects. The weakness is that it wrinkles easily.
Linen fabric has high strength, wear resistance, good moisture absorption, quick moisture dissipation, and is cool to wear. It is suitable for making summer and rugged spring and autumn clothing. It is acid-resistant but not alkali-resistant, has low affinity for dyes, and is difficult to dye with strong colors. Weaknesses are poor elasticity, easy to wrinkle, and low stretchability.
Ramie fabric has high strength, good moisture absorption, fast heat dissipation, not close to the body, good breathability, and cool feeling. Due to the small cohesion between fibers, the fabric is not very smooth and is stiffer and rougher than cotton. However, its dyeability is better than linen fabric and is close to cotton. Suitable for making summer and rugged spring and autumn clothing.
Mulberry silk fabric has good strength, strong elasticity, good moisture absorption and warmth retention. It is acid-resistant and not alkali-resistant, and its strength will decrease after being exposed to sunlight and stored for a long time. It has good affinity for dyes and makes fabrics brightly colored, but it will turn yellow over time. Suitable for summer and spring and autumn fashions and dresses.
The fibers of tussah silk fabric are thicker (5 to 10 times that of mulberry silk), have a rough feel, and have good moisture absorption and breathability; they are light yellow and difficult to bleach and dye. Poor performance. Suitable for spring and autumn fashion.
Wool fabric is soft, elastic, wear-resistant and warm. The luster is soft and elegant, and it has good hygroscopicity; it is acid-resistant and not alkali-resistant; it is easy to be eaten by insects and yellow, and should not be exposed to the sun. Suitable for high fashion and evening wear.
2. Chemical fiber fabrics
There are two types of recycled fibers and synthetic fibers.
Regenerated fiber is a fiber made from natural fibers that have been chemically treated and then spun.
Synthetic fibers are fibers made from low-molecular compounds that are polymerized into high-molecular compounds through chemical synthesis and then spun.
The strength of viscose fiber fabric is lower than that of cotton. It cannot be twisted hard when washed, and it is easy to deform. It has high drape, feels silky, and has a light and silky feel; it wrinkles easily and is not resistant to wear. After grinding, the shrinkage rate is large, and the strength can be enhanced after resin treatment. It has strong dyeability and bright colors, and is suitable for the production of inner and outer garments.
Cupper ammonia fiber fabric has properties similar to viscose, is thinner than viscose fabric, has a smooth hand feel, and is suitable for fine fabrics.
Acetate fiber fabrics are divided into two types: diacetate and triacetate fibers. They have natural silk luster, are soft and elastic, and have certain wrinkle resistance. The disadvantage is that it has low strength and is not wear-resistant. The main fabrics include taffeta, brocade, etc.
Nylon fabric has high strength, good elasticity, anti-wrinkle, mildew and moth resistance; poor light and heat resistance, will turn yellow when exposed to the sun, will shrink above 100 degrees, and will dry at 170~180 degrees Can be set in the heat. Long fiber fabrics include taffeta, georgette, and lining. Staple fiber is used for blending and weaving elastic shirts and pants, gymnastics suits and swimming suits.
Polyester fabric has high strength, good elasticity and wrinkle resistance. The disadvantages are that it dries easily and does not require ironing; it is easily perforated and melted when exposed to sparks; it has poor dyeability and cannot be dyed using ordinary dyeing methods. Because it is not easy to wrinkle, is easy to dry, and does not require ironing, filament is used for anti-silk fabrics, short fiber is mainly blended with cotton, viscose, wool, and acrylic, and polyester textured yarn is used for wool-like and silk-spun fabrics.
Vinyl fabric has high strength and wear resistance. The disadvantages are poor heat resistance, easy to wrinkle, and poor dyeing. Mainly used for work clothes.
Polypropylene fabric has good elasticity, strong wear resistance, light wrinkle resistance, light density, is not heat-resistant or light-resistant, and is difficult to dye. It is not used as clothing fabrics, but is mostly used in industrial textiles.
Chlorine fiber fabric has the same strength as cotton, but its abrasion resistance is 2 times stronger than cotton; it has good elasticity and thermal insulation and is soft. The disadvantages are heat resistance and poor dyeing. Often blended with viscose and cotton. Interwoven with other fibers to create artificial hides and three-dimensional high-patterned fabrics.
Spandex fabric has thin fibers, a particularly large stretch length, and a high elastic recovery rate; it has better sun and heat resistance than rubber and is easy to dye. Can weave elastic fabrics, such as elastic denim, elastic corduroy, elastic seersucker, etc.
(3) Simulated silk fabric is a new type of fabric that has become popular in recent years. It is made of polyester, a cheap chemical fiber raw material, through physical and chemical methods. It has great improvements in comfort and drape.
Huayao polyester imitation silk fabric. Plain and smooth, suitable for shirts, skirts and suits in summer.
Rouzi yarn is plain weave, made of warp and weft yarns with reinforced twist. Due to the small warp and weft density, it shrinks during printing and dyeing, and the surface of the fabric is covered with uniform pores and wrinkles, making it anti-wrinkle; its softness, breathability, and drapeability are greatly improved. Suitable for shawl and lining��, suits, skirts.
Chiffon is thinner and softer than soft yarn, with plain weave. The warp and weft yarns are not twisted, have a thin density and are translucent, suitable for making elegant skirts and evening dresses.
Water-washed, stone-washed, sand-washed fabrics are washed with washing equipment to make them old and fluffy. Stone grinding is done by adding pumice stone during washing. Sand washing means adding chemical additives during washing to make the fiber surface fluffy and soft.
Sand-washed silk can improve wrinkles and shrinkage. After washing, it is breathable, crisp and has good drape. For example, silk crepe de chine has obvious wrinkle resistance after being washed; silk satin has a soft luster after being washed, and the fabric is thickened, making it appear graceful, luxurious and magnificent.
Sand-washed rayon resists wrinkles, shrinks less after washing, has a full wool feel, and has better silk spinning effect.
Sand washed velvet 100% polyester fiber (polyester) imitation silk fabric is made by sand washing. The warp yarn of this fabric is thick and weakly twisted, and the weft sand is fine and strongly twisted, causing the cloth to produce granular grains in the warp direction, thick and thin weft wrinkle effects in the weft direction, and fine fluff on the surface. And after alkali treatment, it becomes soft and elastic, with soft luster.
Washed silk: Polyester imitation silk is washed. Warp yarn is weakly twisted, weft yarn is strongly twisted, plain weave. The surface grains are clear and full, smooth and soft, mostly plain, suitable for pants, skirts, shirts, windbreakers, jackets, etc.
Washed linen: Polyester washed imitation linen, both warp and weft are strongly twisted, plain weave, thin density, strong breathability, rough. It is softer than natural linen after washing. Mostly in plain color, suitable for trousers.
Polyester cotton washed velvet deep processing upgraded product. After washing, it has the softness, wrinkles and distress of washed cloth, as well as the feeling of suede, moisture absorption and breathability. Suitable for making down jackets, jackets, etc.
Washed nylon silk feels three-dimensional and softer after washing. Suitable for jackets, ski shirts, etc.
2. Lining
(1) For cotton plush clothing, choose beautiful silk, feather yarn, etc. that are smooth and have low stretchability. Used as lining to reduce friction between clothes and make it easier to put on and take off.
(2) For autumn and winter clothing, choose soft, warm silk, velvet, etc.
(3) Spring and summer clothing: Choose breathable and moisture-absorbent silk, rich fiber, etc.
(4) To enhance the firmness of clothing, you can choose feather yarn, nylon yarn, etc. with strong wear resistance and fastness.
(5) To prevent sweat stains, choose feather yarn, cotton, etc. that are hard-working and washable.
(6) High-end clothing: Choose beautiful silk that is strong and smooth.
(7) For fabrics with large shrinkage and anti-slip properties, choose electric spinning; for velvet fabrics with strong drape, choose soft silk spinning; for clothing with exaggerated shapes , optional light and stiff nylon yarn.
Lining properties
3. Lining
(1) Classification and application of commonly used linings
Coarse lining, also known as soft lining, is made of 12-count cotton warp yarn and 13-count cotton weft yarn. It is flat and has strong adhesion, so it can be used as a lining for coats. The shrinkage rate is large and should be shrunk in advance.
Black carbon lining is woven with camel wool as the weft yarn and cotton as the warp yarn. It has strong elasticity and is suitable for large body lining and chest lining of woolen clothing.
Horsetail lining is woven with horsetail as weft yarn and cotton as warp yarn. It is more elastic than black carbon and is suitable for use as a chest-stiffening lining for woolen clothing. When in use, place it horizontally without closing the darts, and pull it back up to form a nest shape.
Bleached cloth lining, also known as muslin lining, is woven from 20 to 30 count cotton yarn and then bleached and dyed. The cloth is thick and compact, and is suitable for lapel lining and hem lining of woolen garments.
Hemp lining is woven from the fine yarn of raw hemp fiber. It has good dimensional stability and elasticity. It can replace the horsetail lining with fire black charcoal lining. It is economical and durable.
Resin lining Resin-treated cloth lining is stiff and wrinkle-resistant. It is the main accessory material for making collar linings and waist linings.
Adhesive lining, also known as hot-melt adhesive lining, is an auxiliary material widely used in the world. Stiff, light and soft, it can be used on high, medium, low and high-end clothing.
(2) Varieties and classifications of fusible linings
a. Based on the structure of the base fabric, they are classified into woven, non-woven, Knitted fusible lining.
Woven bonded interlining can be woven from warp and weft yarns of different specifications. It has high stability and a shrinkage rate between 1% and 5%.
Non-woven fusible interlining uses chemical methods to directly form short fibers into a web without weaving, and the cloth shrinks uniformly in length and width. The disadvantage is that the strength is worse than that of woven fabrics.
Knitted fusible interlining is divided into warp knitting and weft knitting. It has the characteristics of lightness, thinness, elastic shrinkage and good softness.
b. Classified by adhesive lining components
Polyethylene lining is cheap
Polyamide lining is expensive
(3) Selection of adhesive lining
a. According to the style, stiff style Choose non-woven fusible lining. Commonly used are 30g, 20g, 10g, etc. The larger the gram, the thicker it is. Use 10g for thin materials and 20g for medium thickness. Selected warp knit fusible lining in soft style.
bAccording to the purpose of the clothing. For example, suits are generally high-end clothing and are generally dry-cleaned. Polyamide adhesive lining should be selected. Jackets are generally washed, and a polyethylene adhesive lining should be used to ensure fastness.
c. To understand the heat shrinkage of the fabric, choose one that is similar.
3. Color pattern characteristics
The same color fabric, such as red, has a sense of stability on the tweed fabric, while on the tweed fabric Georgette is light and bright. This is due to different fibers and structural tissues, which absorb and reflect light to different degrees, reflecting different effects.
Contrasting colors used in the same set of clothing can complement each other, such as an evening dress made of bright, quiet and natural luster soft satin and metallic luster brocade, which is gorgeous, mysterious and dazzling; collarless woolen matching Silk scarves will be more prominent. The calmness of the material and the sparkling brilliance of silk are a combination of noble contrasting colors, like a wonderful, rich and varied symphony.
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c. To understand the thermal shrinkage of the fabric, choose one that is similar.
3. Color pattern characteristics
The same color fabric, such as red, has a sense of stability on the tweed fabric, while on the tweed fabric Georgette is light and bright. This is due to different fibers and structural tissues, which absorb and reflect light to different degrees, reflecting different effects.
Contrasting colors used in the same set of clothing can complement each other, such as an evening dress made of bright, quiet and natural luster soft satin and metallic luster brocade, which is gorgeous, mysterious and dazzling; collarless woolen matching Silk scarves will be more prominent. The calmness of the material and the sparkling brilliance of silk are a combination of noble contrasting colors, like a wonderful, rich and varied symphony.
