Chishi is a type of clothing craftsmanship. Chishi is usually on the shoulders and sleeves because the sides of the shoulders are arched, allowing the sleeves to reach a fuller and more beautiful state. For different sleeve types and different fabrics, the size of the impact is different.
Generally speaking, the further back the fabric is, the more momentum it will take. On the contrary, the thinner the fabric, the smaller the momentum will be. This is because the yarns of thick fabrics are relatively thick, while the yarns of thin fabrics are also thinner. If the thickness of the thick fabric is not strong enough, the sleeve head will be relatively deflated after the sleeves are sewn. , if the thin fabric is too heavy, there will be a lot of wrinkles on the sleeve head after the sleeves are sewn. The above two conditions are not allowed in the clothing.
How to correctly determine the tension of sleeves?
Determine according to the fabric:
Generally, the tension of thick fabrics is between 3CM~3.5CM Better.
Generally, the thickness of thin fabrics is between 1CM and 1.5CM.
Determine according to the sleeve type:
Round sleeves: Generally, the size is between 1CM~3.5CM, down jackets are made of silk, and gastrodia style round sleeves are popular. The weight of hard-textured fabrics such as shirts and windbreakers should be controlled within 1.5CM, and the weight of suits and woolen coats should be controlled between 2.5CM and 3.5CM.
Raglan sleeves: The sleeve shape of raglan sleeves is divided from the body, and the sleeves of all raglan sleeves do not need to be in a posture.
Dropped shoulder sleeves: The conventional shape of dropped shoulder sleeves is to keep the sleeve head part straight. Just make sure that the sleeves are as long as the arc of the body. There are also special shaped dropped shoulder sleeves. It is necessary to put the attacking momentum in the sleeve head part. (Note: The arching of the sleeves of the dropped shoulder sleeves is not caused by the force of the sleeves)
How to distribute the force of the sleeves in the pattern?
Use round sleeves For example
According to the state of the sleeves on the body, we can distribute the sleeve’s strength
In addition to the sleeve head having the strength, the side seam of the sleeve also has the strength quantity. In a sleeve, the back seam of the sleeve has a tension force, but this amount is rarely done in a sleeve now. On the one hand, the requirement for a sleeve is that it does not swing back, and on the other hand, it is for the convenience of industrial production. and fast.
The principle of the back seam of the one-piece sleeve
Among the two-piece sleeves, the back-sleeve seam needs to be made, and the two-piece sleeve needs to be made into a sleeve. Forward momentum. Moreover, the two pieces of sleeves need to be pulled apart on the front sleeve seam.
The position of the back sleeve seam of the two-piece sleeves and the principle of pulling out the front sleeve seam.
According to factors such as fabric, style, sleeve shape, etc., correctly determining the amount of tension of each part of the sleeve is the prerequisite for ensuring the beautiful shape of the sleeves. Only by understanding the direction of the yarn direction of the posture area can the posture be correctly distributed. amount.
