Today we are going to learn about fabrics. When we get a piece of fabric or buy a piece of clothing, the first thing we see is the pattern and color of the fabric. The printing is part of the dyeing.
Therefore, to know the fabric, we must know the color. Then we will feel the texture and feel of the fabric with our hands, look at the texture at close range, and then understand the basic parameters of a piece of fabric – width, weight, density, raw material specifications and Ingredients, if a fabric does not have these basic parameters, then the fabric industry will basically have no way to communicate and disseminate.
Whether it is knitting or woven, the understanding of a piece of fabric and the design of the production process are related to these basic parameters. It is not difficult to analyze these parameters, and we will learn it bit by bit in our courses. .
1. Door width
The commonly used widths of our clothing fabrics are:
Width (57/58)
Medium (50/51)
Narrow width (43/44)
Within a certain range, door width can make layout easier during cutting and can also save fabrics, but there are technical difficulties in the fabric production process. For example, the wider the door width, the harder it is to control the color difference in the edges. At the same time, the loom is also a big reason for limiting the door width. Think about it. In the past, there were shuttle looms. How wide could the shuttle be?
Twenty years ago, the width of most looms in China was below 190CM. Fabrics made with weft elasticity could usually only be made in medium width, so the fabrics had to be marked with widths. Different fabrics may have certain widths. Different, I hope everyone will pay attention to it in the future. If the width difference of the same fabric is more than one inch, the texture of the fabric may be completely different. When developing a fabric, please pay attention to clearly indicate it.
If we want to give a quotation for a fabric or produce and develop a piece of fabric, we must also ask the customer clearly about the width requirements. At the same time, as a product developer, you should understand the difficulty of controlling the color difference in the edges of the fabric. Many stretch fabrics will have different thicknesses in the edges.
2. Density
Density is an important parameter for a piece of fabric. Generally, the greater the density, the greater the density.The more expensive the fabric is, the more people don’t pay enough attention to the density because it is too simple.
Let me tell you about my experience of failure due to density when I first started working as a technician in 1999. A customer took a piece of wool fabric and asked me to make it into a chemical fiber elastic fabric. In order to create that style, we must have used TR raw materials to make it, because at that time, we knew very little about each fiber, so we just needed to create the style. , although the density was adjusted when designing the production process, the difference was too big and the result was complete garbage. From then on, I became sensitive to density.
Density is usually expressed by roots per centimeter or root per inch, while knitting is expressed by rows per centimeter or rows per inch.
Once you know the knitting density and width, you can roughly know what type of original machine it is produced, such as 34-inch 36-needle or 24-needle. Course density can also be used as a reference for line length.
3. Gram weight
The weight of general fabrics is usually expressed in grams per square meter
denim is expressed in ounces/square yard
If it contains silk, we use Mummy to express it
Conversion relationship
1 ounce/square yard=33.90632 grams/square meter
1 mm (m/m)=2.5/0.58064=4.3056 grams/square meter
To some extent, the weight is a parameter used to indicate the thickness of a piece of fabric. For example, a brushed fabric is thicker, a woolen fabric is thicker, a multi-layered fabric is thicker, etc. Usually when we analyze a piece of fabric and the fabric sample is only a small piece, we first weigh the weight of the fabric and then divide it by its area.
For the same piece of fabric, we need to weigh the weight on both sides and in the middle. If there is a big difference, there must be something wrong with the production process and design of the fabric.
4. Understand filament and staple fiber
The difference between short fiber and filament is very simple, that is, one fiber is infinitely long.
For example: polyester has filaments and short fibers. The single filament is polyester filament. If these filaments are cut into short filaments, it is short fiber.
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